tag:blogger.com,1999:blog-55880481436881992172024-02-18T21:43:16.159-08:00Mediterranean Cooking with Clifford A. WrightCompanion blog to www.cliffordawright.comClifford A. Wrighthttp://www.blogger.com/profile/13606241996369357631noreply@blogger.comBlogger85125tag:blogger.com,1999:blog-5588048143688199217.post-68037782612186707582013-03-13T10:51:00.001-07:002013-03-13T10:51:18.886-07:00www.Cook-Coquus.comThe blogging for this site will now appear on <a href="http://www.cook-coquus.com/">www.Cook-Coquus.com</a>. Please come visit me there.Clifford A. Wrighthttp://www.blogger.com/profile/13606241996369357631noreply@blogger.com0tag:blogger.com,1999:blog-5588048143688199217.post-23604583876215427272013-01-19T07:05:00.000-08:002013-01-19T07:05:08.617-08:00One-Pot Wonders<div class="separator" style="clear: both; text-align: center;">
<a href="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEgwiOJiY-bDes4mrhXfpCRW1ErQfqv-R-eW09rbOwOdEZyKBcJeOalcA_71iwq7W4yzUrcVjlBzRCtCzxCPG9OKXiBx2LS78mbnbB6_1kE46Vmv2aLjDWxey8wZeUDMsYKY8KxCO_c-Gqfd/s1600/Biryani+Three+BirdsCC.jpg" imageanchor="1" style="clear: right; float: right; margin-bottom: 1em; margin-left: 1em;"><img border="0" height="240" src="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEgwiOJiY-bDes4mrhXfpCRW1ErQfqv-R-eW09rbOwOdEZyKBcJeOalcA_71iwq7W4yzUrcVjlBzRCtCzxCPG9OKXiBx2LS78mbnbB6_1kE46Vmv2aLjDWxey8wZeUDMsYKY8KxCO_c-Gqfd/s320/Biryani+Three+BirdsCC.jpg" width="320" /></a></div>
Three Birds Biryani is one among 250 recipes in my new book <a href="http://www.amazon.com/One-Pot-Wonders-Clifford-Wright/dp/0470615362/ref=la_B001IQWEPY_1_1?s=books&ie=UTF8&qid=1358607628&sr=1-1" target="_blank">ONE-POT WONDERS</a> coming out in February. In Indian cooking, biryanis are grand and festive rice dishes cooked in layers in a casserole and highly seasoned with spices, especially saffron.<br />
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[photo: Clifford A. Wright]Clifford A. Wrighthttp://www.blogger.com/profile/13606241996369357631noreply@blogger.com0tag:blogger.com,1999:blog-5588048143688199217.post-25906780994934044432012-11-26T06:56:00.000-08:002012-11-26T06:58:13.850-08:00Timballo di Lasagne<div class="separator" style="clear: both; text-align: center;">
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One of the most magnificent of Italian dishes must surely be the timballi or pasticci that served as the famous centerpiece in the movie BIG NIGHT with Stanley Tucci and Tony Shalloub. I tested my <i>timballo di lasagne alla ferrarese </i>and it was declared the best thing ever made by my son, a phrase he uses anytime he's over for dinner. It is a centuries old preparation famous in Ferrara where they make it for Carnevale. It's homemade egg and green lasagne layered with meat ragu and porcini mushrooms and a layer of Bechamel sauce made with Parmigiano-Raggiano cheese and truffles baked in a short dough crust that is sweet with orange zest.Clifford A. Wrighthttp://www.blogger.com/profile/13606241996369357631noreply@blogger.com1tag:blogger.com,1999:blog-5588048143688199217.post-48866537545191810312012-11-08T07:49:00.000-08:002012-11-08T07:49:59.119-08:00Weekend of CookingA weekend of cooking for me is a weekend of recipe testing from the provincial cuisines of Italy. And feeding the kids and their friends is ideal. Here's what I'll be testing: <i>larduocchi</i>, a casserole cooked pork belly pieces with garlic, olive oil, and peppers in vinegar from Molise, <i>penne alla lenticchie</i>, from Umbria is a dish of lentils cooked with carrot, onion, and celery seasoned with tomato puree, garlic, chile, and parsley, <i>pollo alla marengo</i>, and old dish people have heard of but never eaten, supposedly created after Napoleon's Battle of Marengo in Piedmont. It is chicken with mushrooms, tomatoes, wine, and crayfish. <i>Gnocchi all'Ossolana</i> are potato-pumpkin-chestnut flour gnocchi with a mushroom and cream sauce. <i>Gallina col riso </i>is a Sicilian dish of boned whole chicken stuffed with rice, tomatoes, eggs, and mozzarella. And more...maybe I'm doing too much.Clifford A. Wrighthttp://www.blogger.com/profile/13606241996369357631noreply@blogger.com1tag:blogger.com,1999:blog-5588048143688199217.post-67672878149094882292012-10-29T14:40:00.002-07:002012-10-29T14:40:44.458-07:00Socca and Farinata<div style="text-align: left;">
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<tr><td class="tr-caption" style="text-align: center;">[Photo: Jennifer Pickens on Flickr]</td></tr>
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Socca (in Provence) and farinata (in Genoa) are the same thing, a chickpea crepe batter cooked in a very hot pan like a pizza. It's served as a snack and is true stret food in both Nice and Genoa. <!--[if gte mso 9]><xml>
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<![endif]--><span style="font-family: "Times New Roman","serif"; font-size: 12.0pt; mso-ansi-language: EN-US; mso-bidi-font-size: 10.0pt; mso-bidi-language: AR-SA; mso-fareast-font-family: "Times New Roman"; mso-fareast-language: EN-US;">In
Provence, <i style="mso-bidi-font-style: normal;">socca</i> and <i style="mso-bidi-font-style: normal;">cade</i> (another name) go back at least to
1860. <span style="mso-spacerun: yes;"> </span><i style="mso-bidi-font-style: normal;">Cade de Toulon</i>, probably the more ancient of the two, was made from
corn flour and the <i style="mso-bidi-font-style: normal;">socca de Nice</i> that
evolved from it is made from chickpea flour. <span style="mso-spacerun: yes;"> </span>There is a version in Marseilles made with a
mixture of flours which they call <i style="mso-bidi-font-style: normal;">tourta
tota cada</i>, meaning “hot tarts.”<span style="mso-spacerun: yes;"> </span>It
was mentioned in 1879 by Frédéric Mistral as <i style="mso-bidi-font-style: normal;">gâteau de farine de maïs qu’on vend par tranches à Marseille</i> (corn flour
cake sold by the slice in Marseilles). <span style="mso-spacerun: yes;"> </span><i style="mso-bidi-font-style: normal;">Socca</i> was a favorite morning meal for
workers who bought them from itinerant socca sellers who cooked them from wagons
fitted with charcoal ovens while they cried <i style="mso-bidi-font-style: normal;">cada,
cada, cada</i> or <i style="mso-bidi-font-style: normal;">socca, socca, socca
caouda</i>. <span style="mso-spacerun: yes;"> </span>The traditional <i style="mso-bidi-font-style: normal;">socca</i> is made on a copper tin called a <i style="mso-bidi-font-style: normal;">plaque </i>a round cooking surface about 2
feet in diameter that sits in a very hot wood fired oven.<span style="mso-spacerun: yes;"> </span>It cooks until the top is golden in about 5
minutes.<span style="mso-spacerun: yes;"> </span>The batter should be thinner
than crêpe batter, almost like milk.</span>Clifford A. Wrighthttp://www.blogger.com/profile/13606241996369357631noreply@blogger.com0tag:blogger.com,1999:blog-5588048143688199217.post-53035474913157496892012-10-24T05:59:00.001-07:002012-10-24T05:59:36.972-07:00Chicken and Zucchini<div class="MsoNormal" style="mso-pagination: none;">
There is a very simple, and quickly made, dish from the region of Emilia-Romagna in Italy that is nothing but strips of chicken breast and zucchini cooked in balsamic vinegar the name of which indicates it all,<i style="mso-bidi-font-style: normal;"> Straccetti di Pollo al Balsamico. </i><span style="mso-bidi-font-style: normal;">A chopped garlic clove is heated in olive oil, then in goes the chicken breast until it turns color in 2 minutes, then the four julienned zucchini, some wine, and finally the balsamic vinegar. From start to finish takes about 7 minutes.</span></div>
Clifford A. Wrighthttp://www.blogger.com/profile/13606241996369357631noreply@blogger.com0tag:blogger.com,1999:blog-5588048143688199217.post-17226324881505274122012-10-22T14:50:00.002-07:002012-10-22T14:50:50.165-07:00Sicily: Architecture and Cuisine<!--[if gte mso 9]><xml>
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My first cookbook was titled <i style="mso-bidi-font-style: normal;"><a href="http://www.cliffordawright.com/caw/books.html">Cucina Paradiso: The Heavenly
Food of Sicily</a></i>, a cookbook about the Sicilian folkloric cuisine known
as <i style="mso-bidi-font-style: normal;">cucina arabo-sicula </i>(Arab-Sicilian
cuisine).<span style="mso-spacerun: yes;"> </span>This was not a cuisine that
existed during the Arab presence in Sicily (827 – about 1230), but was a contemporary
Sicilian cuisine believed to be dishes composed by what Sicilians took to be
Arab influence.<span style="mso-spacerun: yes;"> </span>A professor friend many
years ago said when I mentioned I was writing such a cookbook: “that sound more
like a dissertation topic than a cookbook.”<br />
The idea for the book came to me years before that, when I was in Palermo and became
enchanted by the architecture of some of the older palazzi and churches that I
later learned could be described as examples of Arab-Norman architecture.<span style="mso-spacerun: yes;"> </span>This led to an even greater fascination since
I had never heard of any architecture described that way.<span style="mso-spacerun: yes;"> </span>I remember though the church that set me on
this road.<span style="mso-spacerun: yes;"> </span>It was the <span style="mso-bidi-font-weight: bold;">Chiesa di San Cataldo</span> in Palermo.<span style="mso-spacerun: yes;"> </span>The Normans flourished in Sicily from 1060 to
1194 and the pre-existing Arab population flourished with them under relatively
tolerant rule.<span style="mso-spacerun: yes;"> </span><br />
The church was built around 1160 by admiral Majone di Bari.<span style="mso-spacerun: yes;"> </span>The three red bulbous domes, the arches, and
various cubic forms were typical of Islamic architecture while the combination
of Arab and Norman builders, architects, and workmen is seen not only in the façade
but in design aspects such as the simple forms derived from Norman military
experience. <br />
It was only a small leap from this church to some fabulous food.<br />
[Photo: Clifford A. Wright] <br />
Clifford A. Wrighthttp://www.blogger.com/profile/13606241996369357631noreply@blogger.com0tag:blogger.com,1999:blog-5588048143688199217.post-20319720380942107282012-10-20T07:55:00.000-07:002012-10-20T07:55:28.186-07:00Pizza and its Cousins<div class="separator" style="clear: both; text-align: center;">
<a href="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEjFEeJ7o8d60tTGzHhHaSDg5xUeOt-CpjIuTSyxIZJ8owWsWnxr6-JNAraBHT_a-khf61qo7WcD-WBvAQnRt1eVKPYUJlIn1j2fN1FMqWXpzzOxnrWS7YCKCI8ANLHtRT9PBIV8vqGxPd3M/s1600/Crostata+con+Cipolle+(Emilia)+(2).jpg" imageanchor="1" style="margin-left: 1em; margin-right: 1em;"><img border="0" height="240" src="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEjFEeJ7o8d60tTGzHhHaSDg5xUeOt-CpjIuTSyxIZJ8owWsWnxr6-JNAraBHT_a-khf61qo7WcD-WBvAQnRt1eVKPYUJlIn1j2fN1FMqWXpzzOxnrWS7YCKCI8ANLHtRT9PBIV8vqGxPd3M/s320/Crostata+con+Cipolle+(Emilia)+(2).jpg" width="320" /></a></div>
One of my favorite dishes are all the variety of pizze and pizza-like preparations from every region in Italy. <i>Crostata</i> is one, a pizza made with <i>pasta frolla</i>, that is, short dough. This particular one, <i> crostata con cipolle</i>, is topped with a luscious mixture of caramelized onions and anchovies and a bit of cream and is from Emilia-Romagna.Clifford A. Wrighthttp://www.blogger.com/profile/13606241996369357631noreply@blogger.com1tag:blogger.com,1999:blog-5588048143688199217.post-81363554152381954132012-10-18T06:17:00.003-07:002012-10-18T06:17:56.714-07:00Where's the Veal?I lament the disappearance of veal which is increasingly hard to find. When I was growing up veal scaloppine was always on the menu and a veal scaloppine hero was a wonderful treat. One ordered veal piccata or veal marsala in one's favorite restaurant. Today, it's difficult to find veal. I often hear the complaint that people "don't eat veal." It's a wonderful meat though: tender, light, flavorful and versatile.Clifford A. Wrighthttp://www.blogger.com/profile/13606241996369357631noreply@blogger.com0tag:blogger.com,1999:blog-5588048143688199217.post-26885385078606062262012-10-15T05:31:00.001-07:002012-10-15T05:31:05.703-07:00Grilled DuckGrilling duck, while delicious, is not a casual matter. One must consider what happens to all that fat that will drip out and most importantly that it does not drip onto the coals which will simply ignite it and incinerate your duck. So there's two steps which will assure a good grilled duck. It might be easier to split the duck in half lengthwise then place it cut side down in a deep casserole and bake it at 375 degree F in your oven until you have at least 3/4 cup of fat. Build the charcoal fire in your grill's firebox to one side and place an aluminum drip pan on the other side. Take the roasting duck from the oven and place the duck over the drip pan in the grill, use the cover, and grill until the duck has a deep smoky mahogany color.Clifford A. Wrighthttp://www.blogger.com/profile/13606241996369357631noreply@blogger.com0tag:blogger.com,1999:blog-5588048143688199217.post-5920215344786716962012-10-12T09:26:00.000-07:002012-10-12T09:26:53.932-07:00Beccute, a Biscotto from MarcheBiscotto is singular and it is, basically, an Italian cookie or biscuit (same meaning: twice cooked). Decided to test today the <i>beccute </i>from the Marches popular in Ancona. It's very easy to make: mix flour, sugar, almonds, walnuts, pine nuts, dried figs, raisins, and water, form little rolls and bake. That's it. Very nice.Clifford A. Wrighthttp://www.blogger.com/profile/13606241996369357631noreply@blogger.com1tag:blogger.com,1999:blog-5588048143688199217.post-4513905911703515092011-12-15T13:59:00.000-08:002011-12-15T13:59:16.918-08:00Potatoes in Barcelona<!--[if gte mso 9]><xml>
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<a href="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEj_tzohtAt9lecIXVky325OQzSs7ABug6hKYzFZVJCT9Ne7SvsL_4ir1XSQW1Uy-CNlWML8X4W6XLDoUaQfOPSd5Ug-j5rMrwXp8bhxi9n0ZX9T6nuL5J-d1W4y054c5dbGMLjoXKhvCQ-b/s1600/Patatas+bravas+1+cc.jpg" imageanchor="1" style="clear: left; float: left; margin-bottom: 1em; margin-right: 1em;"><img border="0" height="240" src="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEj_tzohtAt9lecIXVky325OQzSs7ABug6hKYzFZVJCT9Ne7SvsL_4ir1XSQW1Uy-CNlWML8X4W6XLDoUaQfOPSd5Ug-j5rMrwXp8bhxi9n0ZX9T6nuL5J-d1W4y054c5dbGMLjoXKhvCQ-b/s320/Patatas+bravas+1+cc.jpg" width="320" /></a></div>
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<i style="mso-bidi-font-style: normal;">Patatas brava</i> is a classic Catalan potato dish but these days it’s
transformed into a very popular tapa in Barcelona
bars.<span style="mso-spacerun: yes;"> </span>Restaurant chefs get into the act
too and all sort of interpretive variations occur.<span style="mso-spacerun: yes;"> </span>The one I had at the Florian restaurant in Barcelona at Bertrand i
Serra 20 in the early 1990s was demonstrated by the chef and owner Rosa Grau
and her sous-chef Enrique Martin, who encased the potatoes in <i style="mso-bidi-font-style: normal;">allioli.</i><span style="mso-spacerun: yes;">
</span>This recipe is adapted from the inspiration of Chef Sergi Arola of the
Arola restaurant in the Hotel Arts in Barcelona.<span style="mso-spacerun: yes;"> </span>The <i style="mso-bidi-font-style: normal;">brava</i>
sauce is the tomato sauce.<span style="mso-spacerun: yes;"> </span>In more
careless versions of <i style="mso-bidi-font-style: normal;">patatas brava</i> the
<i style="mso-bidi-font-style: normal;">brava</i> sauce is made </div>
<div class="MsoNormal">
with ketchup and
mayonnaise. <i style="mso-bidi-font-style: normal;"><span style="mso-spacerun: yes;"> </span></i></div>
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For the potatoes</div>
<div class="MsoNormal" style="mso-pagination: none;">
4 white rose or Yukon gold potatoes
(about 20 ounces in all, each about 3 inches in diameter at the widest part)</div>
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4 to 6 cups olive oil for frying</div>
<div class="MsoNormal" style="mso-pagination: none;">
For the <i style="mso-bidi-font-style: normal;">brava </i>sauce</div>
<div class="MsoNormal" style="mso-pagination: none;">
5 ripe tomatoes (about 1 pound),
cut in half, seeds squeezed out, and grated against the largest holes of a
standing grater down to the peel</div>
<div class="MsoNormal" style="mso-pagination: none;">
1 large garlic clove, finely
chopped</div>
<div class="MsoNormal" style="mso-pagination: none;">
1 small dried red chile</div>
<div class="MsoNormal" style="mso-pagination: none;">
Freshly ground black pepper</div>
<div class="MsoNormal" style="mso-pagination: none;">
2 teaspoons sugar</div>
<div class="MsoNormal" style="mso-pagination: none;">
½ teaspoon salt and more if
desired</div>
<div class="MsoNormal" style="mso-pagination: none;">
For the <i style="mso-bidi-font-style: normal;">allioli</i></div>
<div class="MsoNormal" style="mso-pagination: none;">
4 large garlic cloves </div>
<div class="MsoNormal" style="mso-pagination: none;">
½ teaspoon salt and more to
taste</div>
<div class="MsoNormal" style="mso-pagination: none;">
1 large egg</div>
<div class="MsoNormal" style="mso-pagination: none;">
1 cup sunflower seed oil</div>
<div class="MsoNormal" style="mso-pagination: none;">
For the garnish</div>
<div class="MsoNormal" style="mso-pagination: none;">
Finely chopped fresh parsley for
garnish</div>
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1. Preheat the oven to 260
degrees F.</div>
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2. Peel the potatoes and cut in
half lengthwise.<span style="mso-spacerun: yes;"> </span>Trim each half into a
cylinder about 1 ½ inches in diameter using a paring knife and peeler.<span style="mso-spacerun: yes;"> </span>Slice the cylinders in halves.<span style="mso-spacerun: yes;"> </span>You’ll have four 1 ½-inch segments per
potato.<span style="mso-spacerun: yes;"> </span>Hollow out the middle of each
segment using a small melon baller, corer, or a paring knife and demitasse
spoon.<span style="mso-spacerun: yes;"> </span>Try not to break through the
bottom.<span style="mso-spacerun: yes;"> </span>Place the potato segments on a
baking sheet and bake for 30 minutes.</div>
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3. Meanwhile, in a skillet,
simmer the tomatoes with the garlic and chile over low heat until all the water
has evaporated, about 1 hour.<span style="mso-spacerun: yes;"> </span>Transfer
to a food processor and blend with the sugar and salt.<span style="mso-spacerun: yes;"> </span>This is the <i style="mso-bidi-font-style: normal;">brava</i> sauce.<span style="mso-spacerun: yes;"> </span>Clean the food
processor.</div>
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4. Prepare the <i style="mso-bidi-font-style: normal;">allioli</i> in a mortar by mashing the
garlic with ½ teaspoon salt until mushy.<span style="mso-spacerun: yes;">
</span>Transfer to the food processor and blend with the egg for 30 seconds,
then add the sunflower seed oil in a very slow stream until emulsified with the
egg.<span style="mso-spacerun: yes;"> </span>Correct the salt and refrigerate,
covered, until needed.<span style="mso-spacerun: yes;"> </span>You’ll have more
<i style="mso-bidi-font-style: normal;">allioli</i> than you will need for this
recipe.<span style="mso-spacerun: yes;"> </span></div>
<div class="MsoNormal" style="mso-pagination: none;">
5. Preheat the frying oil to 360
degrees F in a deep-fryer or an 8-inch saucepan fitted with a basket insert.</div>
<div class="MsoNormal" style="mso-pagination: none;">
6. Remove the potatoes from the
oven then deep-fry the potatoes until golden, about 4 minutes.<span style="mso-spacerun: yes;"> </span>Remove and cool for at least 30 minutes, but keep
the frying oil hot.<span style="mso-spacerun: yes;"> </span>Re-fry the potatoes
for 2 to 3 minutes.<span style="mso-spacerun: yes;"> </span>Remove and arrange
on a serving platter and season with salt.<span style="mso-spacerun: yes;">
</span>Once they are warm and not hot, spoon the <i style="mso-bidi-font-style: normal;">brava</i> sauce into the hollow and then cover with a spoonful of
allioli.<span style="mso-spacerun: yes;"> </span>Garnish with a sprinkle of
parsley and serve.</div>
<div class="MsoNormal" style="mso-pagination: none;">
Makes 8 tapas servings (2 per
person)</div>
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<br /></div>
<div class="MsoNormal">
[photo: Clifford A. Wright] </div>Clifford A. Wrighthttp://www.blogger.com/profile/13606241996369357631noreply@blogger.com1tag:blogger.com,1999:blog-5588048143688199217.post-56077271801012092452011-09-14T17:42:00.000-07:002011-09-14T17:42:32.648-07:00Hot and CheesyMy new book HOT & CHEESY is coming out in February to be published by John Wiley & Sons. I'm very excited about this book and who wouldn't be about cheese. We Americans eat a lot of cheese and it's a shame that we know so little about cheese, how to make it, how to care for it, how to eat it, and how to cook it. And what a shame so much of it isn't legally or technically cheese, for example, Velveeta, which isn't cheese. You'll like this book because it tells you all about how to COOK with cheese.Clifford A. Wrighthttp://www.blogger.com/profile/13606241996369357631noreply@blogger.com0tag:blogger.com,1999:blog-5588048143688199217.post-59924156061690798802011-07-31T09:19:00.000-07:002011-07-31T09:20:16.003-07:00The Sicilian Tuna of Archestratus<div class="separator" style="clear: both; text-align: center;"><a href="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEjN4lJAgMGX_dvLXnYpWRgdiFcJpJycsAozjm8kD6Fua86IHdnadcbPRHI8-O_D8bS6wmDJPG7oUX2Tl-uuoO_Jf0s9vSZF3mEafIjs44l5orxDRnC3fHPxBZ6A4znviYZWpyXWpxQz9qZu/s1600/Lipari+Island%252C+Sicily+198308+%25282%2529.jpg" imageanchor="1" style="clear: left; float: left; margin-bottom: 1em; margin-right: 1em;"><img border="0" height="211" src="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEjN4lJAgMGX_dvLXnYpWRgdiFcJpJycsAozjm8kD6Fua86IHdnadcbPRHI8-O_D8bS6wmDJPG7oUX2Tl-uuoO_Jf0s9vSZF3mEafIjs44l5orxDRnC3fHPxBZ6A4znviYZWpyXWpxQz9qZu/s320/Lipari+Island%252C+Sicily+198308+%25282%2529.jpg" width="320" /></a></div><div class="MsoNormal" style="mso-pagination: none;"><br />
</div><div class="MsoNormal">Archestratus was a Greek poet from either Gela or Syracuse in Sicily who wrote in the mid-fourth century B.C. His major work is the didactic poem called <i>Hedypatheia</i>, usually translated as “Life of Luxury,” written in hexameters, that advises on where to find the best food in the Mediterranean world. His work is only known through fragments found in the monumental collection of writing on food by a later Greek, Athenaeus, called <i>Deipnosophistae</i> (Dinner Table Philosophers) who flourished at the end of the </div><div class="MsoNormal">second century A.D. and third century A.D. Archestratus was quite fond of fish and they are often mentioned in his work. Archestratus writes that “in the glorious isle of Sicily, the shores of Cephaloedium and Tyndarium nurture far better tunnies; and if ever thou go to Hipponium, in sacred Italy, that abode of Persephone with the fair diadem, by far, yea, by far the best of all [tuna] are there, and the heights of victory are theirs. Cephaloedium and Tyndarium is that part of the Sicilian coast on the Tyrrhenian Sea between modern Cefalu and Tindai, in the commune of Patti in the province of Messina. Archestratus tells us that “the belley pieces [of tuna] are esteemed, as Eubulus tell us in <i style="mso-bidi-font-style: normal;">Ion</i>.” He recommends to “have a tail-cut from the she tunny—the large she-tunny I repeat, whose mother city is Byzantium. Slice it and roast it all rightly, sprinkling just a little salt, and buttering it with oil. Eat the slices hot, dipping them into a sauce piquant; they are nice even if you want to eat them plain, like the deathless gods in form and stature. But if you serve it sprinkled with vinegar, it is done for.” To this day the tuna of Sicily is favored by all gourmets.</div><div class="MsoNormal">[photo: Clifford A. Wright; off the coast of Lipari] </div>Clifford A. Wrighthttp://www.blogger.com/profile/13606241996369357631noreply@blogger.com2tag:blogger.com,1999:blog-5588048143688199217.post-64597438798893447012011-06-24T06:10:00.000-07:002011-06-24T06:10:37.005-07:00HOT & CHEESY - The Book<!--[if gte mso 9]><xml> <w:WordDocument> <w:View>Normal</w:View> <w:Zoom>0</w:Zoom> <w:TrackMoves/> <w:TrackFormatting/> <w:PunctuationKerning/> <w:ValidateAgainstSchemas/> <w:SaveIfXMLInvalid>false</w:SaveIfXMLInvalid> <w:IgnoreMixedContent>false</w:IgnoreMixedContent> <w:AlwaysShowPlaceholderText>false</w:AlwaysShowPlaceholderText> <w:DoNotPromoteQF/> <w:LidThemeOther>EN-US</w:LidThemeOther> <w:LidThemeAsian>X-NONE</w:LidThemeAsian> <w:LidThemeComplexScript>X-NONE</w:LidThemeComplexScript> <w:Compatibility> <w:BreakWrappedTables/> <w:SnapToGridInCell/> <w:WrapTextWithPunct/> <w:UseAsianBreakRules/> <w:DontGrowAutofit/> <w:SplitPgBreakAndParaMark/> <w:DontVertAlignCellWithSp/> <w:DontBreakConstrainedForcedTables/> <w:DontVertAlignInTxbx/> <w:Word11KerningPairs/> <w:CachedColBalance/> </w:Compatibility> <w:BrowserLevel>MicrosoftInternetExplorer4</w:BrowserLevel> <m:mathPr> <m:mathFont m:val="Cambria Math"/> <m:brkBin m:val="before"/> <m:brkBinSub m:val="--"/> <m:smallFrac m:val="off"/> <m:dispDef/> <m:lMargin m:val="0"/> <m:rMargin m:val="0"/> <m:defJc m:val="centerGroup"/> <m:wrapIndent m:val="1440"/> <m:intLim m:val="subSup"/> <m:naryLim m:val="undOvr"/> </m:mathPr></w:WordDocument> </xml><![endif]--><!--[if gte mso 9]><xml> <w:LatentStyles DefLockedState="false" DefUnhideWhenUsed="true"
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</style> <![endif]--> <div class="separator" style="clear: both; text-align: center;"></div><div class="separator" style="clear: both; text-align: center;"><a href="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEgjxQ4C4Uq2ZkhXQzg7T0d09yBIKsWCMJPcMSISdb4YizRsdo1LuAV3KNr2Eh-NwhGtpGuyWFR_FHP-fqi37jUw9Q6B6cZklRRXjBiUXkcfFQRZX5WRDiUCLrJJV7ukgjk3ugTvP8XEPXQz/s1600/Tomato+Tart+with+Fontina%252C+Goat+Cheese%252C+and+Figs+2.JPG" imageanchor="1" style="clear: left; float: left; margin-bottom: 1em; margin-right: 1em;"><img border="0" height="240" src="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEgjxQ4C4Uq2ZkhXQzg7T0d09yBIKsWCMJPcMSISdb4YizRsdo1LuAV3KNr2Eh-NwhGtpGuyWFR_FHP-fqi37jUw9Q6B6cZklRRXjBiUXkcfFQRZX5WRDiUCLrJJV7ukgjk3ugTvP8XEPXQz/s320/Tomato+Tart+with+Fontina%252C+Goat+Cheese%252C+and+Figs+2.JPG" width="320" /></a></div><div class="MsoNormal">Tomato Tart with Figs, Fontina, and Goat Cheese </div><div class="MsoNormal"><br />
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</div><div class="MsoNormal">This tart is a favorite in the summer.<span style="mso-spacerun: yes;"> </span>This is from my forthcoming book to be published by Wiley, HOT & CHEESY. You’ll need to blind bake the puff pastry first, which means baking the dough without the filling so that it does not become soggy later.</div><div class="MsoNormal">½ pound puff pastry, defrosted according to package instructions</div><div class="MsoNormal">3 tablespoons extra-virgin olive oil</div><div class="MsoNormal">1 large garlic clove, crushed</div><div class="MsoNormal">2 pounds ripe and juicy tomatoes, peeled and cut into large chunks</div><div class="MsoNormal">Salt and freshly ground black pepper to taste</div><div class="MsoNormal">2 sprigs fresh mint</div><div class="MsoNormal">¼ pound fontina Val d’Aosta cheese, cut in 8 thin wedges</div><div class="MsoNormal">¼ pound fresh goat cheese, broken apart</div><div class="MsoNormal">4 fresh figs, quartered</div><div class="MsoNormal">1. Preheat the oven to 400 degrees F.</div><div class="MsoNormal">2. Roll the puff pastry out on a lightly floured surface with a floured rolling pin to cover the bottom and sides of a 10-inch tart pan, pressing the pastry against the bottom and sides and folding over excess dough to make a thick rim.<span style="mso-spacerun: yes;"> </span>Prick the bottom of the pastry with a fork.<span style="mso-spacerun: yes;"> </span>Cut out a 10-inch round of parchment paper and place on top of the pastry.<span style="mso-spacerun: yes;"> </span>Fill with 1 pound ceramic pastry baking balls or 1 pound dried beans and bake until the edges are golden, about 20 minutes.<span style="mso-spacerun: yes;"> </span>Remove the tart pan and cool on a rack.<span style="mso-spacerun: yes;"> </span>Remove the ceramic balls or dried beans and once cool store for another use.</div><div class="MsoNormal">3. Increase the oven heat to 425 degrees F.</div><div class="MsoNormal">4. In a skillet, heat the olive oil over high heat with the garlic clove and when it starts smoking add the tomatoes and cook, stirring occasionally, on high until it is thick with large soft chunks, about 8 minutes.<span style="mso-spacerun: yes;"> </span>Season with salt and pepper and set aside with the mint in the sauce while the pastry shell cools.</div><div class="MsoNormal">5. Remove and discard the mint sprigs.<span style="mso-spacerun: yes;"> </span>Spoon the chunky tomato sauce over the bottom of the pastry.<span style="mso-spacerun: yes;"> </span>Lay the fontina cheese, goat cheese, and figs on top attractively.<span style="mso-spacerun: yes;"> </span>Bake until the cheese is bubbling, about 20 minutes.<span style="mso-spacerun: yes;"> </span>Serve hot or warm.</div><div class="MsoNormal">Makes 4 servings</div><div class="MsoNormal"><br />
</div><div class="MsoNormal">[photo: Clifford A. Wright </div>Clifford A. Wrighthttp://www.blogger.com/profile/13606241996369357631noreply@blogger.com3tag:blogger.com,1999:blog-5588048143688199217.post-38292713051646869242011-05-24T11:31:00.000-07:002011-12-08T16:46:30.034-08:00Arab Delights with Real Beets<div class="separator" style="clear: both; text-align: center;">
<a href="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEgkSKG6hPcRjh6TUomdbmr91s0fVCSuh3cEIGbpVIYoCf8IB2pGiOAlnqhScIeN5OcGon3trGlA7XEn-Zki0-qLQVtaGrghrR5hHcGFTpKsm24cw1XnA4_TZ1DimTz854a9ssjCYPpA4h4K/s1600/Shawandar+bi%25E2%2580%2599l-Laban.JPG" imageanchor="1" style="clear: left; float: left; margin-bottom: 1em; margin-right: 1em;"><img border="0" height="240" src="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEgkSKG6hPcRjh6TUomdbmr91s0fVCSuh3cEIGbpVIYoCf8IB2pGiOAlnqhScIeN5OcGon3trGlA7XEn-Zki0-qLQVtaGrghrR5hHcGFTpKsm24cw1XnA4_TZ1DimTz854a9ssjCYPpA4h4K/s320/Shawandar+bi%25E2%2580%2599l-Laban.JPG" width="320" /></a></div>
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[photo: Clifford A. Wright]<br />
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I'm sure I'm not the only one who discovered at some point in their lives that a real roasted red beet root is a far cry from anything popped from a can. In fact, as far as I'm concerned they are two separate foods. <br />
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A favorite food of mine is an Arab dish of red beets popular in Lebanon and Palestine called <i>Shamandar bi’l-Laban</i> in Arabic.</div>
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Red Beets with Yogurt</div>
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When I first encountered this Lebanese preparation, called <i style="mso-bidi-font-style: normal;">shamandar bi’l-laban,</i> I was quite taken with the appetizing color. But upon tasting it I couldn’t believe how good it was--how natural beets, yogurt, and mint seemed even though I’m not sure it would have occurred to me. This dish can also be made with <i style="mso-bidi-font-style: normal;">silq</i>, that is, “white beets” more commonly known as chard.</div>
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2 pounds beets, with their leaves</div>
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Salt and freshly ground black pepper to taste</div>
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2 large garlic cloves, pounded in a mortar with 1/2 teaspoon salt until mushy</div>
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2 heaping tablespoons strained yogurt (called <i style="mso-bidi-font-style: normal;">labna</i> or <i>lubny</i>) (see Note below)</div>
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1 1/2 cups whole plain yogurt</div>
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2 tablespoons finely chopped fresh mint leaves</div>
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1. Steam or boil the beet leaves over high heat until wilted, about 10 minutes. Remove and drain. Steam the roots until easily pierced by a skewer, about 30 minutes. Drain and let cool. Cut the leaves into strips and arrange by spreading them on a serving plate. Peel the beets and cut into 1/4-inch-thick slices. Arrange the beetroot slices on top of the leaves. Season with salt and pepper.</div>
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2. Stir the garlic paste and <i style="mso-bidi-font-style: normal;">labna</i> into the yogurt and beat for 1 minute with a fork. Spread the yogurt over the beets and garnish the top with the mint.</div>
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Makes 6 serving </div>
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<b style="font-family: Times,"Times New Roman",serif;">Note:</b><span style="font-family: Times,"Times New Roman",serif;"> </span><span style="font-family: Times,"Times New Roman",serif; font-size: 12pt;"><span style="font-size: 12pt;">Strained yogurt (</span><span style="font-size: 12pt; font-style: italic;">labna</span><span style="font-size: 12pt;"> or </span><span style="font-size: 12pt; font-style: italic;">lubny</span><span style="font-size: 12pt;">) is sold in Middle Eastern markets and better supermarkets such as Whole Foods. You can make it at home easily enough: place a good quality whole plain yogurt in a cheesecloth-lined strainer and let rest over a deep bowl to drain overnight. The resulting yogurt in the strainer is called </span><span style="font-size: 12pt; font-style: italic;">labna</span><span style="font-size: 12pt;">.</span></span><span style="font-family: "Times New Roman","serif"; font-size: 12pt;"></span>Clifford A. Wrighthttp://www.blogger.com/profile/13606241996369357631noreply@blogger.com2tag:blogger.com,1999:blog-5588048143688199217.post-84245390735181248062011-05-18T09:26:00.000-07:002011-05-18T09:26:10.330-07:00Fava Beans with Mediterranean Jews<div class="separator" style="clear: both; text-align: center;">Anyone steeped in Mediterranean culinary cultures, especially that of Sephardic Jews in the Eastern <br />
Mediterranean, will note, for example, around the time of Passover, the complete unfamiliarity of this food with the food of Eastern Europe whence most of the Jews in Western Europe and North America hail. May and June is a time for fresh fava beans and among Sephardic Jews “fava beans are one of the foods the Jews hankered for during their Exodus from Egypt,"Claudia Roden, author of <a href="http://www.amazon.com/Book-Jewish-Food-Odyssey-Samarkand/dp/0394532589/ref=sr_1_1?s=books&ie=UTF8&qid=1305735531&sr=1-1"><i>The Book of Jewish Food: an Odyssey from Samarkand to New York</i></a>, who Roden grew up in Egypt, tells us. </div><div class="separator" style="clear: both; text-align: center;"><a href="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEjskGeZQzkohiK7PhElv0a30Us-7dwkHIAIs5dwcrQJs_41jOzwjNUrYTN20HmTlzXjjPJMncKJYsG1QG1CepzRX33wHBgOiU9bv39LUCMHekjCTe93rXJ70nrLfoZrQeRQWnhjIv76KC_S/s1600/Koukia+-+Fava+%2528Greek+Jewish%2529.JPG" imageanchor="1" style="margin-left: 1em; margin-right: 1em;"><br />
</a></div><br />
<a href="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEjskGeZQzkohiK7PhElv0a30Us-7dwkHIAIs5dwcrQJs_41jOzwjNUrYTN20HmTlzXjjPJMncKJYsG1QG1CepzRX33wHBgOiU9bv39LUCMHekjCTe93rXJ70nrLfoZrQeRQWnhjIv76KC_S/s1600/Koukia+-+Fava+%2528Greek+Jewish%2529.JPG" style="margin-left: 1em; margin-right: 1em;"><img border="0" height="240" src="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEjskGeZQzkohiK7PhElv0a30Us-7dwkHIAIs5dwcrQJs_41jOzwjNUrYTN20HmTlzXjjPJMncKJYsG1QG1CepzRX33wHBgOiU9bv39LUCMHekjCTe93rXJ70nrLfoZrQeRQWnhjIv76KC_S/s320/Koukia+-+Fava+%2528Greek+Jewish%2529.JPG" width="320" /></a> [photo: Clifford A. Wright]<br />
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Among Greek Jews a favorite dish this time of year is simply called <i>koukia</i>, fava beans.<br />
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</style> <![endif]--> <div class="MsoNormal" style="mso-pagination: none;"><i style="mso-bidi-font-style: normal;">Koukia</i></div><div class="MsoNormal" style="mso-pagination: none;">Fava Beans with Dill</div><div class="MsoNormal" style="mso-pagination: none;">In the Ladino language spoken by the Jews of Greece in the seventeenth century, fava beans were called <i style="mso-bidi-font-style: normal;">avas</i> while today in Greece they are called <i style="mso-bidi-font-style: normal;">koukia</i>.<span style="mso-spacerun: yes;"> </span>This is a delightful springtime dish that can also be served as a meze at room temperature.</div><div class="MsoNormal" style="mso-pagination: none;">6 tablespoons unsalted butter or extra-virgin olive oil</div><div class="MsoNormal" style="mso-pagination: none;">1 pound double-peeled fava beans (see Note)</div><div class="MsoNormal" style="mso-pagination: none;">5 small spring onions, white and light green parts, chopped</div><div class="MsoNormal" style="mso-pagination: none;">Salt and freshly ground black pepper to taste </div><div class="MsoNormal" style="mso-pagination: none;">5 tablespoons chopped fresh dill</div><div class="MsoNormal" style="mso-pagination: none;">Juice of 2 lemons</div><div class="MsoNormal" style="mso-pagination: none;">1. In a skillet, melt the butter over medium heat, then cook, stirring, the fava beans, springs onions, salt, and pepper for 5 minutes.<span style="mso-spacerun: yes;"> </span>Add water to cover the beans, about 3/4 cup, reduce the heat to low and simmer for 10 minutes, stirring occasionally.<span style="mso-spacerun: yes;"> </span>Add the dill and lemon juice and stir then simmer until soft, about another 10 minutes.<span style="mso-spacerun: yes;"> </span>Serve hot, warm, or at room temperature.</div><div class="MsoNormal" style="mso-pagination: none;">Makes 4 servings</div><div class="MsoNormal" style="mso-pagination: none;">Note: Double-peeled means the fava beans are taken out of their pods (first peel) and then skinned of their tough light green skin (second peel) that surrounds the bean.</div>Clifford A. Wrighthttp://www.blogger.com/profile/13606241996369357631noreply@blogger.com1tag:blogger.com,1999:blog-5588048143688199217.post-25273800808687276902011-04-15T14:57:00.000-07:002011-04-15T14:57:10.701-07:00Making Pasta<div class="separator" style="clear: both; text-align: center;"><a href="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEidtll7x7UhpLZnF9tGoR887HFQM2LKOI-n50RZ7eEbcj_8q4MZq-oKTmOrifHvko7zh6camAYXsN06sjIerleUskKyeSST_ThjbM3yerEQsMXPDStTDzP5qXNn5KJOyYJuUDsp32OVwA3s/s1600/Tajarill-making+pasta+%25285%2529.JPG" imageanchor="1" style="clear: left; float: left; margin-bottom: 1em; margin-right: 1em;"><img border="0" height="240" src="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEidtll7x7UhpLZnF9tGoR887HFQM2LKOI-n50RZ7eEbcj_8q4MZq-oKTmOrifHvko7zh6camAYXsN06sjIerleUskKyeSST_ThjbM3yerEQsMXPDStTDzP5qXNn5KJOyYJuUDsp32OVwA3s/s320/Tajarill-making+pasta+%25285%2529.JPG" width="320" /></a></div>My electric Imperia pasta roller and cutter just broke after 25 years of superlative service. It had the decency not to break until I finished cutting my very last sheet of <i>tajarill</i>, a short 3-inch long fettuccine used in the province of Teramo in Abruzzo made of semolina and whole wheat flour. I'm going to replace it with the pasta attachments KitchenAid sells for their stand mixers.<br />
<br />
I've been making pasta a lot lately, partly because I'm writing a big book that requires everything to be homemade and partly because it just isn't that hard and it's head and shoulders above store bought, noticeably so. My favorite pasta I cut by hand, the pappardelle which I love to make with a rich duck sauce. <br />
<br />
It's easy as I said. Pour 3 cups of semolina flour on a work surface and make a well in the middle, like a volcanic crater. Pour in 1 cup water, a teaspoon of salt and 1 or 2 tablespoons of olive oil. Using your index finger stir and incorporate the flour on the walls of the crater and once it is absorbed form the dough into a ball and knead for 8 minutes, then let rest 1 hour. Roll it out and use a pasta cutter roller or cut by hand. It's up to you. Lay the pasta on a table covered with a sheet, or in a 11 x 13 inch baking sheet sprinkled with flour so the pasta doesn't stick hopelessly together and let dry 4 hours to 2 days.<br />
<br />
If you need more hand holding than that you'll find my detailed instructions <a href="http://www.cliffordawright.com/caw/tips.php/id/10/">here</a>.<br />
<br />
[photo: Clifford A. WrightClifford A. Wrighthttp://www.blogger.com/profile/13606241996369357631noreply@blogger.com2tag:blogger.com,1999:blog-5588048143688199217.post-2754894687088013152011-03-15T06:36:00.000-07:002011-03-15T06:36:11.356-07:00Octopus Pie from Sète<div class="separator" style="clear: both; text-align: center;"><a href="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEjR34JgTmb8XAbF8eOenr3__QqO0O8ZMbUZPhiNIZ6VkQqX4WrRMy726o1-I6me-EL-MO8tklj7qZN9On8sTIE3Cp1B8JY3ES4ANCI1exVcmynmThwTLDBJy_P3pdnh45NMdJpvyd9m8Vwa/s1600/Tielle+Setoise.jpg" imageanchor="1" style="margin-left: 1em; margin-right: 1em;"><img border="0" src="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEjR34JgTmb8XAbF8eOenr3__QqO0O8ZMbUZPhiNIZ6VkQqX4WrRMy726o1-I6me-EL-MO8tklj7qZN9On8sTIE3Cp1B8JY3ES4ANCI1exVcmynmThwTLDBJy_P3pdnh45NMdJpvyd9m8Vwa/s1600/Tielle+Setoise.jpg" /></a></div><div class="MsoNormal">The fishing of octopus has always been a secondary activity on the Golfe du Lion where Sète is a small but important port. We know that octopus was caught on this coast and shipped to Toulouse in the fourteenth century. There are a few extant octopus recipes from the Middle Ages, and one I’m familiar with is an octopus stuffed with mint, parsley, and other herbs found in the anonymous fourteenth-century Catalan cookbook <i>Libre de sent soví</i>. <span id="goog_1266130765"></span><span id="goog_1266130766"></span></div><div class="MsoNormal"> This recipe from Sète called <i>Tielle de Poulpe Sètoise </i>I first tasted in Cap d’Agde, a small, rather pleasant seaside resort in the Hérault department of the Languedoc. Today it is notable as the site of the Quartier Naturisme, a nudist city of about 10,000 people. This delicious <i>tielle</i>, made in an earthenware pan about five inches in diameter of the same name, is a spicy octopus ragoût clothed in a sweet wine-flavored pastry dough. The wine-colored crust glistens with a golden aura because of an egg yolk-and-tomato paste glaze. Down the road from Sète, in Bouzigues, a similar preparation is made with mussels and is called <i>chausson de moule</i>. </div><div class="MsoNormal">2 to 2 ¼ cups unbleached all-purpose flour</div><div class="MsoNormal">3 ½ ounces pork lard</div><div class="MsoNormal">¼ cup sugar</div><div class="MsoNormal">¼ teaspoon salt</div><div class="MsoNormal">¾ cup sweet red wine</div><div class="MsoNormal">1 ½ pounds octopus, cleaned</div><div class="MsoNormal">2 tablespoons red or white wine vinegar</div><div class="MsoNormal">2 tablespoons extra-virgin olive oil, plus extra as needed</div><div class="MsoNormal">1 medium onion, finely chopped</div><div class="MsoNormal">4 garlic cloves, finely chopped</div><div class="MsoNormal">2 pounds ripe plum tomatoes, cut in half, seeds squeezed out, and grated against the largest holes of a standing grater down to the peel</div><div class="MsoNormal">Salt and freshly ground black pepper to taste</div><div class="MsoNormal">¾ teaspoon cayenne pepper</div><div class="MsoNormal">1 teaspoon dried thyme</div><div class="MsoNormal">1 bay leaf</div><div class="MsoNormal">Pork lard or butter for greasing the tart pan</div><div class="MsoNormal">1 egg yolk</div><div class="MsoNormal">1 teaspoon tomato paste</div><div class="MsoNormal">1. In a cold, large metal bowl, work 2 cups of the flour, the lard, sugar, and salt together with your fingers or a pastry cutter until it is pebbly and well-blended. Alternatively, pulse in a food processor and then transfer to a cold metal bowl. Add the wine and knead until you have supple dough, adding more flour if the dough is sticking. Form the dough into a ball and wrap in waxed paper and leave in the refrigerator for 2 hours.</div><div class="MsoNormal">2. Put the octopus in a large pot of boiling salted water with the vinegar and boil until tender, about 45 minutes. Drain, rinse with cold water and peel as much of the skin off the octopus as you can while it is still hot. Chop the octopus into smaller than bite-size pieces.</div><div class="MsoNormal">3. In a large skillet, heat the olive oil over medium heat, then cook the onion , garlic, and octopus until the onion is soft, about 8 minutes, stirring frequently. Add the tomatoes and season the sauce with salt, black pepper, cayenne, thyme, and bay leaf. Reduce the heat to medium-low and let the sauce simmer until the water is evaporated, about 1 ¼ to 1 ½ hours, stirring occasionally.</div><div class="MsoNormal">4. Preheat the oven to 350 degrees F.</div><div class="MsoNormal">5. Remove the dough from the refrigerator and roll out thin. Cut out sixteen 5-inch disks. Lightly grease eight 4-inch tart pans with lard or butter and cover each with a disk of dough. Prick the dough all over with a toothpick. Spread several tablespoons of the tomato-and-octopus stuffing over it. Cover with the remaining disks and pinch down the edges so they meet the bottom disk. Pinch off any excess dough. Prick the top with a toothpick. Whisk together 2 or 3 drops of olive oil with the egg yolk and tomato paste and brush on the top crust.</div><div class="MsoNormal">6. Bake until a glistening golden, about 30 minutes. Remove the tarts from their pan, arrange on a serving platter, and serve.</div><div class="MsoNormal">Makes 8 servings</div><div class="MsoNormal"><br />
</div>Clifford A. Wrighthttp://www.blogger.com/profile/13606241996369357631noreply@blogger.com0tag:blogger.com,1999:blog-5588048143688199217.post-23811806373393260852011-01-24T16:27:00.000-08:002011-01-24T16:27:57.290-08:00Pirates of the Mediterranean<!--[if gte mso 9]><xml> <w:WordDocument> <w:View>Normal</w:View> <w:Zoom>0</w:Zoom> <w:TrackMoves/> <w:TrackFormatting/> <w:PunctuationKerning/> <w:ValidateAgainstSchemas/> <w:SaveIfXMLInvalid>false</w:SaveIfXMLInvalid> <w:IgnoreMixedContent>false</w:IgnoreMixedContent> <w:AlwaysShowPlaceholderText>false</w:AlwaysShowPlaceholderText> <w:DoNotPromoteQF/> <w:LidThemeOther>EN-US</w:LidThemeOther> <w:LidThemeAsian>X-NONE</w:LidThemeAsian> <w:LidThemeComplexScript>X-NONE</w:LidThemeComplexScript> <w:Compatibility> <w:BreakWrappedTables/> <w:SnapToGridInCell/> <w:WrapTextWithPunct/> <w:UseAsianBreakRules/> <w:DontGrowAutofit/> <w:SplitPgBreakAndParaMark/> <w:DontVertAlignCellWithSp/> <w:DontBreakConstrainedForcedTables/> <w:DontVertAlignInTxbx/> <w:Word11KerningPairs/> <w:CachedColBalance/> </w:Compatibility> <w:BrowserLevel>MicrosoftInternetExplorer4</w:BrowserLevel> <m:mathPr> <m:mathFont m:val="Cambria Math"/> <m:brkBin m:val="before"/> <m:brkBinSub m:val="--"/> <m:smallFrac m:val="off"/> <m:dispDef/> <m:lMargin m:val="0"/> <m:rMargin m:val="0"/> <m:defJc m:val="centerGroup"/> <m:wrapIndent m:val="1440"/> <m:intLim m:val="subSup"/> <m:naryLim m:val="undOvr"/> </m:mathPr></w:WordDocument> </xml><![endif]--><!--[if gte mso 9]><xml> <w:LatentStyles DefLockedState="false" DefUnhideWhenUsed="true"
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</style> <![endif]--> <div class="separator" style="clear: both; text-align: center;"><a href="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEg9UYx2AcRT-mYvcGqo7e5hPD7vIf3AChoUnBF5LYVc4wZW4zcOXqMFMeothapLjsurYNwINHA2SeAkEu3XoQQCu3d5unM9LvCWhtPoa7gIT2IPj_yHs4v59SX2c9xeF5EFh_JNRDgDXwOS/s1600/Santorini+2+%252800%2529.jpg" imageanchor="1" style="margin-left: 1em; margin-right: 1em;"><img border="0" src="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEg9UYx2AcRT-mYvcGqo7e5hPD7vIf3AChoUnBF5LYVc4wZW4zcOXqMFMeothapLjsurYNwINHA2SeAkEu3XoQQCu3d5unM9LvCWhtPoa7gIT2IPj_yHs4v59SX2c9xeF5EFh_JNRDgDXwOS/s1600/Santorini+2+%252800%2529.jpg" /></a></div><div class="MsoNormal">In the Pelion region of Greece, fishermen would give up their gardens and hunting and move their families to the streets of the local harbor for the fishing season.<span> </span>In Crete, men routinely joined Turkish ships even a century before Crete fell into Turkish hands.<span> </span>Turkish recruiters would also find Greek sailors in the taverns of Pera on Cyprus.<span> </span>There were many small-time Greek pirates in the islands of the Aegean and along the coasts of the Adriatic, in search of small-time victims and whatever food could be stolen.<span> </span>Although these fishermen-pirates could take from the sea, pirate rations were usually a sack of flour, some biscuits, a skin of oil, honey, a few bunches of garlic and onions, and a little salt.<span> </span>These rations would last a month, or until the next raid or port. <span id="goog_1430209283"></span><span id="goog_1430209284"></span></div><div class="MsoNormal"><br />
</div><div class="MsoNormal"><span> </span>Greek fishermen were truly sailors who found a home all over the Mediterranean.<span> </span>Greek sailors could easily be found manning a Spanish, Turkish, or pirate galley. The infamous brothers, the Barbarossas, were Greek or Turkish sailors from Lesbos who converted to Islam and settled in Djerba, becoming pirates who terrorized the western Mediterranean.<span> </span>By 1518, they ruled Algiers until the last brother’s death in 1546.</div><div class="MsoNormal" style="text-align: justify;"><br />
</div><div class="MsoNormal" style="text-align: justify; text-indent: 0.5in;">When you throw that just-caught fish onto the grill, wrapped in grape leaves, you can think of how rich that Mediterranean is with its magnificent cuisines and equally fantastic history.<span> </span>Try the recipe for <a href="http://www.cliffordawright.com/caw/recipes/display/recipe_id/1016/">grilled fish wrapped in grape leaves</a>.</div>Clifford A. Wrighthttp://www.blogger.com/profile/13606241996369357631noreply@blogger.com1tag:blogger.com,1999:blog-5588048143688199217.post-77078736951381903552010-12-19T06:31:00.000-08:002010-12-19T06:31:07.175-08:00Christmas Day 1189<!--[if gte mso 9]><xml> <w:WordDocument> <w:View>Normal</w:View> <w:Zoom>0</w:Zoom> <w:TrackMoves/> <w:TrackFormatting/> <w:PunctuationKerning/> <w:ValidateAgainstSchemas/> <w:SaveIfXMLInvalid>false</w:SaveIfXMLInvalid> <w:IgnoreMixedContent>false</w:IgnoreMixedContent> <w:AlwaysShowPlaceholderText>false</w:AlwaysShowPlaceholderText> <w:DoNotPromoteQF/> <w:LidThemeOther>EN-US</w:LidThemeOther> <w:LidThemeAsian>X-NONE</w:LidThemeAsian> <w:LidThemeComplexScript>X-NONE</w:LidThemeComplexScript> <w:Compatibility> <w:BreakWrappedTables/> <w:SnapToGridInCell/> <w:WrapTextWithPunct/> <w:UseAsianBreakRules/> <w:DontGrowAutofit/> <w:SplitPgBreakAndParaMark/> <w:DontVertAlignCellWithSp/> <w:DontBreakConstrainedForcedTables/> <w:DontVertAlignInTxbx/> <w:Word11KerningPairs/> <w:CachedColBalance/> </w:Compatibility> <w:BrowserLevel>MicrosoftInternetExplorer4</w:BrowserLevel> <m:mathPr> <m:mathFont m:val="Cambria Math"/> <m:brkBin m:val="before"/> <m:brkBinSub m:val="--"/> <m:smallFrac m:val="off"/> <m:dispDef/> <m:lMargin m:val="0"/> <m:rMargin m:val="0"/> <m:defJc m:val="centerGroup"/> <m:wrapIndent m:val="1440"/> <m:intLim m:val="subSup"/> <m:naryLim m:val="undOvr"/> </m:mathPr></w:WordDocument> </xml><![endif]--><!--[if gte mso 9]><xml> <w:LatentStyles DefLockedState="false" DefUnhideWhenUsed="true"
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<div class="separator" style="clear: both; text-align: center;"><a href="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEiIYk8qkHP6Ip3fpFh9WevLx9-x1mbieiRbzDRwaPKKIft_ggnAEWPTeAuJwrVhWbCryS5NmsR6HBy_vFssvppyeSqB2BrNbGQpPTuWtltj26xsoSCyMmUyfzOIseFsWDPatsaDdPQDMZpv/s1600/Richard+Lion-hearted+codex12thc.jpg" imageanchor="1" style="margin-left: 1em; margin-right: 1em;"><img border="0" height="320" src="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEiIYk8qkHP6Ip3fpFh9WevLx9-x1mbieiRbzDRwaPKKIft_ggnAEWPTeAuJwrVhWbCryS5NmsR6HBy_vFssvppyeSqB2BrNbGQpPTuWtltj26xsoSCyMmUyfzOIseFsWDPatsaDdPQDMZpv/s320/Richard+Lion-hearted+codex12thc.jpg" width="197" /></a></div><div class="MsoNormal" style="text-align: justify;">Of the famous Christmas dinners, I must comment on that of Christmas day 1189 when Richard the Lion-hearted gave a sumptuous banquet at Castello Mategrifon in Messina in Sicily.<span> </span>The name of the castle means “curb on the Greeks.”<span> </span>He invited the King of France and the Sicilian notables.<span> </span>A few days later he had an interesting interview with the aged Abbot of Corazzo, Joachim, founder of the Order of Fiore.<span> </span>The venerable saint expounded to him the meaning of the Apocalypse.<span> </span>The seven heads of the Dragon were Herod, Nero, Constantius, Muhammad, Melsenuth (by whom he probably meant Abdul Mueim, founder of the Almohad sect), Saladin, and finally the Antichrist himself, who, he declared, had already been born 15 years ago in Rome and would sit on the papal throne.<span> </span>Richard’s flippant reply, that in that case the Antichrist was probably the actual Pope, Clement III, whom he personally disliked.<span> </span>This splendiferous feast was described by Ambroise (flourished c. 1190) a Norman poet and chronicler of the Third Crusade, author of a work called <i>L’Estoire de la guerre sainte</i>, which describes in rhyming French verse the adventures of Richard Coeur de Lion as a Crusader.<span> </span>As proof of its splendor Ambroise, says that every dish was of gold or silver, and that there was not a dirty tablecloth in the hall, providing us some insight into hygiene in that period of time when it was notable that the tablecloths are clean.</div>Clifford A. Wrighthttp://www.blogger.com/profile/13606241996369357631noreply@blogger.com2tag:blogger.com,1999:blog-5588048143688199217.post-48729223817537433342010-11-23T05:52:00.000-08:002010-11-23T05:54:15.040-08:00A Side Dish for Thanksgiving<div class="separator" style="clear: both; text-align: center;"><a href="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEhrhWncW5Lj994dgDcLyWU4zZlezekXSg8U4liE1MyRdjtXRO0TNMqfvk4Y56PPPIPwNNsMRccNHQKzUG4j2NxmXyrw9vNnEG2wnWHQcAPv3xE7inQCaebEFgFQhQMeRLaEqDpVtZYI6P0f/s1600/Brussels+sprouts%252C+pan-fried.JPG" imageanchor="1" style="clear: left; float: left; margin-bottom: 1em; margin-right: 1em;"><img border="0" height="240" src="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEhrhWncW5Lj994dgDcLyWU4zZlezekXSg8U4liE1MyRdjtXRO0TNMqfvk4Y56PPPIPwNNsMRccNHQKzUG4j2NxmXyrw9vNnEG2wnWHQcAPv3xE7inQCaebEFgFQhQMeRLaEqDpVtZYI6P0f/s320/Brussels+sprouts%252C+pan-fried.JPG" width="320" /></a></div> <span style="font-size: xx-small;">[Photo: Clifford A. Wright]</span><br />
Thanksgiving is a big joyous occasion in our house and even more so now that the kids are grown and actually do the cooking or a lot of it anyway. We have a set menu and recipes printed out in a looseleaf folder that we use every year. The menu is heavily weighted towards New England mostly because we lived in Cambridge, Massachusetts for 14 years and the kids were raised there. We like everything traditional and the food is fantastic. The turkey is moist and tender and slices like butter. We have gravy made with homemade turkey stock and a little cognac. Our stuffing is typical New England bread stuffing, with homemade bread, sausage, chestnuts<br />
and herbs. We add dishes to the repertoire but never take away. For example, for some years we made pumpkin puree but then switched over for about a decade making pumpkin flapjacks. Brussels sprouts are traditional on the New England Thanksgiving table and finally I came up with a winning Brussels sprouts dish that people love. Hash of Brussels Sprouts with Maple-cured Bacon and Hazelnuts is a winner. You start by pan-searing the split Brussels sprouts in a large cast-iron pan until golden brown. Remove them and cook the bacon until crispy, then everything is chopped up like a hash together with the hazelnuts and there you have a wonderful side dish. I'm sure you've never seen people take seconds of Brussels sprouts but they do with this one.Clifford A. Wrighthttp://www.blogger.com/profile/13606241996369357631noreply@blogger.com1tag:blogger.com,1999:blog-5588048143688199217.post-46021657382965452392010-10-08T07:23:00.000-07:002010-10-08T07:24:41.196-07:00Clifford Teaching at Central Market in TexasI will be teaching at <a href="http://www.centralmarket.com/Cooking-School.aspx">CENTRAL MARKET</a> in Austin, Dallas, San Antonio, Houston, Ft. Worth, and Southlake from October 18 to 23. Join me for classes on cooking with cheese, <a href="http://www.centralmarket.com/Cooking-School.aspx">CHEESE: THE ESSENTIAL INGREDIENT</a>. The dishes I will demonstrate are some old time favorites and some new delights. Learn how to make French Onion Soup au Gratin, Mexican Three Cheese Soup with Roasted Poblanos, Cheesy Ham Poof, Bacon Noodle Casserole, Palak Paneer, and Tomato Tart with Figs, Fontina, and Goat Cheese.<br />
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These will be fun and delicious evenings. Come join me and sign up now at <a href="http://www.centralmarket.com/Cooking-School.aspx%20">Central Market Cooking School</a> in the city nearest you.<br />
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<div class="separator" style="clear: both; text-align: center;"><a href="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEhuY0ZFJ8SE6NeJpY2qvO83pURB-lOapwu1ZUVW4PP5eryrocGWZ9EF2XAZ76spOAMX1d9NLtzO5h3bH92Kq_FlsFHrhy20h3Sse5wfhoQRnscW_hxMwLbRb86RQPMZ2d3S6bUrO1n5lTWO/s1600/Tomato+Tart+with+Fontina,+Goat+Cheese,+and+Figs+2a.jpg" imageanchor="1" style="margin-left: 1em; margin-right: 1em;"><img border="0" height="240" src="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEhuY0ZFJ8SE6NeJpY2qvO83pURB-lOapwu1ZUVW4PP5eryrocGWZ9EF2XAZ76spOAMX1d9NLtzO5h3bH92Kq_FlsFHrhy20h3Sse5wfhoQRnscW_hxMwLbRb86RQPMZ2d3S6bUrO1n5lTWO/s320/Tomato+Tart+with+Fontina,+Goat+Cheese,+and+Figs+2a.jpg" width="320" /></a></div>Tomato Tart with Figs, Fontina, and Goat CheeseClifford A. Wrighthttp://www.blogger.com/profile/13606241996369357631noreply@blogger.com3tag:blogger.com,1999:blog-5588048143688199217.post-90631685010984394182010-09-07T11:12:00.000-07:002010-09-07T13:16:47.441-07:00Sardines<div class="separator" style="clear: both; text-align: center;"><a href="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEgAusQM9QmpyXd6cpJ0y02QTT-u0HnSiXX0kUH9hv8FlbouaT-FhKcxp9SQrFoX5-7xuvzWMbAxGXhbJ8SMzrvwy39lqqaDs_BBAtaH841syQsXYbJZfP0K2x_Idka-cU9GrFzbUPhxWvb7/s1600/Linguine+with+Fried+Sardines+CC.jpg" imageanchor="1" style="clear: left; float: left; margin-bottom: 1em; margin-right: 1em;"><img border="0" src="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEgAusQM9QmpyXd6cpJ0y02QTT-u0HnSiXX0kUH9hv8FlbouaT-FhKcxp9SQrFoX5-7xuvzWMbAxGXhbJ8SMzrvwy39lqqaDs_BBAtaH841syQsXYbJZfP0K2x_Idka-cU9GrFzbUPhxWvb7/s320/Linguine+with+Fried+Sardines+CC.jpg" /></a></div><br />
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One of the typical seafoods of the coastal Mediterranean are sardines. Usually they are either deep-fried or they're grilled. I love them both ways. In the U.S. sardines are mostly considered bait and one rarely finds them in fish stores. Sardines are abundant off the coast I live near in southern California, but they sure aren't abundant in the stores. I think I know the reason they're not popular: most southern Californians trace their heritage to the Midwest and fish cookery was never big--in fact non-existent--in their families that came from Oklahoma, Missouri, or Michigan. They passed on to their children and their grandchildren their disinterest in fish. However, you can't ignore fish when you're on a big ocean, so when they did eat fish they ate fish that didn't look like fish, namely, fish fillets or unrecognizable "white" fish. So what about those sardines? Goodness, you could see their eyes and they had bones!<br />
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Man, what they're missing. Of course, I miss the easy access to them. My local Whole Foods supermarket sells local sardines for $3.99 a pound. That's great. Down the street is the fancy-shmancy Santa Monica Seafood selling their sardines (and they are the ONLY 2 places that sell them in all of the West side of Los Angeles, population 1 million I would imagine) for $15 a pound. Yikes. I told them I could get then down the street for $3.99. They said "yeah, but these are from France." Only in a stark raving mad country like ours would someone want to pay for a first class seat on a plane for a little fish.<br />
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So you've got your sardines. Gut them, ripping out all the viscera including that in the head too. Deep-fry them in plenty of olive oil for 2 to 3 minutes. And then lay them atop of some linguine cooked with olive oil, garlic, parsley, and a dusting of cayenne. Mighty nice.<br />
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[photo: linguine with fried sardines, Clifford A. Wright]Clifford A. Wrighthttp://www.blogger.com/profile/13606241996369357631noreply@blogger.com4tag:blogger.com,1999:blog-5588048143688199217.post-21044280195749672382010-08-23T06:14:00.000-07:002010-08-23T06:14:43.603-07:00A Week of Great Food<div class="separator" style="clear: both; text-align: center;"><a href="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEj9sskA7mqYUH-PfsiC5RTIXYVCAuqbFgl6ZQu86jNzkfjcrHLsIxZ0PlENbiaotSOSY1jhTgTjB-ahk2V8KGaygd_-4BkyoeIx-f9wgMeQd71mNqsGT0Eb1we1DN8BnCcXFNxmm4UWXBUr/s1600/Ossobucco+5.JPG" imageanchor="1" style="clear: left; float: left; margin-bottom: 1em; margin-right: 1em;"><img border="0" src="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEj9sskA7mqYUH-PfsiC5RTIXYVCAuqbFgl6ZQu86jNzkfjcrHLsIxZ0PlENbiaotSOSY1jhTgTjB-ahk2V8KGaygd_-4BkyoeIx-f9wgMeQd71mNqsGT0Eb1we1DN8BnCcXFNxmm4UWXBUr/s320/Ossobucco+5.JPG" /></a></div><div class="separator" style="clear: both; text-align: center;"></div>When my friend Boyd visited this week from Baltimore it become a week of great food. No recipe-testing this week from this cookbook author. The kids came over ever day and we feasted. On Tuesday we started with as authentic an <a href="http://www.cliffordawright.com/caw/recipes/display/bycategory.php/recipe_id/726/id/38/">ossobuco all Milanese</a> and <a href="http://www.cliffordawright.com/caw/recipes/display/recipe_id/727/">risotto alla Milanese</a> as you can get. I made the veal stock for the risotto the day before and I used my ultra-low simmer setting on my stove so it simmered, barely, for about 8 hours. Wednesday we had a mixed grill of veal sweetbreads, lamb kidney (oh man, those were good), skirt steak, and homemade Italian sausage that I had frozen about a month ago. Along with it we had <a href="http://www.cliffordawright.com/caw/recipes/display/bycountry.php/recipe_id/786/id/3/pg2/2/">frittedda</a>, that Sicilian dish of artichokes, peas, fava, and scallions that I made in June and my favorite Sicilian eggplant dish, <a href="http://www.cliffordawright.com/caw/recipes/display/bycountry.php/recipe_id/785/id/3/pg2/2/">mulinciana alla schebbeci</a>, a kind of eggplant seviche, but much more. Thursday turned into Mexican night and my girlfriend Michelle and son Seri made a 5-course dinner straight from Rick Bayless's <a href="http://www.amazon.com/Authentic-Mexican-20th-Anniversary-Ed/dp/0061373265/ref=sr_1_1?s=books&ie=UTF8&qid=1282568882&sr=1-1"><i>Authentic Mexican</i></a> cookbook. We had queso fundido, chipotle chile sauce for our tacos with chorizo and potatoes and tacos al carbon, plus some guacamole and frijoles charros. On Friday was a break, but Saturday we had our annual lobsterfest, that wonderfully messy affair on the roof deck, juice squirting everywhere and shells a-flying. We got 10 two-pound lobsters for $5.95 a pound, can you believe it? Sunday was oysterfest, 100 Blue Point oysters from Long Island that I had my man fly in for our enjoyment. We bake 24 wrapped in prosciutto and sauced with a balsamic reduction and the rest we ate raw. Man what a week. Lotta beer too.<br />
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[photo credits: ossobuco, Clifford A. Wright; lobster: Dailymail.com.uk]<br />
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<div class="separator" style="clear: both; text-align: center;"><a href="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEid6vXzc2hrF4a6gJddB78ju8ESy3JqTfzZmHAq5IZlkihADsHxZ98MH0S9ju1oFN1JqjtPbmZjelIpUphmnU6RBx9Nwn0mdBzFSWY7hjRR6EpGc2_P6F4gum3ydq533ya7xbdt5mmcXkar/s1600/Lobster-dailymail.com.uk.jpg" imageanchor="1" style="margin-left: 1em; margin-right: 1em;"><img border="0" src="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEid6vXzc2hrF4a6gJddB78ju8ESy3JqTfzZmHAq5IZlkihADsHxZ98MH0S9ju1oFN1JqjtPbmZjelIpUphmnU6RBx9Nwn0mdBzFSWY7hjRR6EpGc2_P6F4gum3ydq533ya7xbdt5mmcXkar/s320/Lobster-dailymail.com.uk.jpg" /></a></div>Clifford A. Wrighthttp://www.blogger.com/profile/13606241996369357631noreply@blogger.com0